Wednesday

Happy Canada Day - To Frederick Arm via Lewis Channel, Calm Channel and through a trio of rapids: Yucalta Rapids, Gillard Passage and Dent Rapids

Today, with some careful planning and fingers crossed, we made passage through three sets of rapids.  Our classroom learning has taught us that we should only traverse rapids during slack current and that if there will be a strong current when the current next turns, that we have a 15 minute window on either side of this timing.  Today, we needed to forego that lesson because there were three sets of rapids to be crossed and the slack current at the last rapids was roughly 30 minutes earlier than the slack current at the first rapids.  Rob, Bill and I did separate calculations and met this morning to compare notes; we were all in agreement as to what the water would be doing and when.  Then, we applied the recommendations of different publications (and Bill's vast experience, of course) to conclude that we should enter the first rapids 60 minutes prior to slack current.  We figured we could handle the first set of rapids (not the worst of the three) an hour before slack by riding the back eddies on the east side of the channel.  Then, we expected to be pushed to the west side of the channel and we were ok with that prospect so long as we could make good time in getting to the Dent Rapids (the last ones) to clear "Devil's Hole" there as soon as possible.  I don't know why it's called Devil's Hole.  I try to avoid things called "Devil's Hole".  So we were hoping for the best, prepared for the worst and a little nervous.  And it was fine.  The skies were foreboding, it rained and at times we felt the water briefly take control of our boat.  At the end of it all, we entered Frederick Arm where Bill shouted to us that there were porpoises frolicking in the wake of his bow.  It was magnificent to the see the porpoises splash out of the water at our bow and then swim alongside our boat; they looked incredibly robust and powerful swimming beside us.  I tried but could not get a photo of them as they flashed by.
In Frederick Arm, we docked in a small spot that resembles (and is) someone's floating home.  Paul greet us at Oleo's, a few small docks manned by his barking but friendly dogs.  Paul has another job but happily accomodates those who call ahead for docking and dinner.  In anticipation of our arrival, Paul had traveled by boat to Campbell River at 5:00 a.m. to pick up his sister-in-law so that she could assist him with cooking and serving us dinner.  The set-up is rustic and homespun and very much a work in progress.  In fact, the dock is stacked with winter firewood and virtually every structure appears to be either under construction or in the process of renovation.  Nevertheless, the reception was warm and the comfort food was very good.  We had no problem getting in and secured and enjoyed a great evening here.  This location is an ideal stop for boats stopping before or after the rapids and we really hope Paul makes a go of it.


June 30 - Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island

Blue has a bandaged foot, the result of a run-in with an oyster shell on his leap off the dinghy this morning; he is stoic but I know it hurts.  We anchored near Squirrel Cove today but first stopped in at the Squirrel Cove Public Wharf to do laundry, shop for provisions, including propane and gasoline (for the dinghy) and use wi-fi.  Rob docked very well in a tight spot that we would not have considered attempting even a few weeks ago and I was thrilled at the prospect of shopping! internet!  However, soon after our arrival, I had a spectacular meltdown while simultaneously doing laundry, failing to get an internet connection, being unable to find Rob and trying to catch Blue who was actively fending off a local dog.  Rob, unbeknownst to me, was having a leisurely shop in the boating section of the general store. Rob is very sorry.  And I had a glass of wine with my lunch.  Onward.  Tonight we went back to the restaurant at Squirrel Cove for a very good dinner with Bill and Eileen.  We sense that our restaurant choices will soon be nil and so we are taking advantage of these last opportunities.  We traveled to the restaurant in our respective dinghies with the dogs.  The "drive" was about 15 minutes from our anchorage and it was a bracing, dark and wonderful ride home.

June 29 - Tenedos Bay, Desolation Sound Marine Park


This morning we pulled our anchor up at 5:30 a.m., crossed over the sandbar while the depth was ok and within minutes dropped anchor on the other side of the sandbar and promptly went back to bed.  Later, we got out of bed again, pulled anchor again and traveled to spectacular Tenedos Bay.  We were delighted to find no one else there. We anchored in the middle of the clear, deep bay and with the place to ourselves, didn’t need to stern tie to shore.  All day, it alternated between pouring rain and sunny skies.  A few trips to various shorelines with Blue rounded out a lazy day onboard the boat.   Eileen’s great great grandparents, James and Sarah Palmer homesteaded in Desolation Sound and so this place has special meaning and memories for her.  Eileen loaned me her copy of Desolation Sound, A History by Heather Harbord and sure enough, Chapter 12, “Theodosia Inlet and Tenedos Bay, Ultimate Wilderness for the Palmers” details the family’s journey to and history in this area.   Photos of the family dressed in period finery belie the difficult living conditions that they faced here.  Another great day.




Lush forest surrounds the bay



Rob climbs a hill with Blue while I wait for them in the dinghy


Blue loves a sunset cruise

He recognizes our boat in the distance
  
As the sun sets, this is the view from our bow

June 28 - Another day in Roscoe Bay

We were thrilled that our friends wanted to spend another day in this spot.  Today has been cool, grey and misty and we have spent the day pouring over charts, checking tide tables, re-tying lines, baking, reading and writing.  Getting used to the propane oven, I made scones (note to self:  sour cream is not a good substitute for buttermilk); they were not as good as me mum's but I'll keep trying... We have had enough prawns for now so no prawning today.  


During a sudden downpour

Tonight we went to Eileen and Bill’s for a wonderful dinner.  There is nothing quite like going to a dinner party in your dinghy, in the pouring rain, with a tray of cheese and crackers balanced on your knee, a bottle of wine between your legs and the dog sprinting back and forth between the bow and stern. Aren't we outdoorsy?! We need to leave very early tomorrow morning to clear the sandbar on our way out but it will be worth the early start to have stayed here another night.

June 27 - Roscoe Bay, West Redonda Island


This morning we pulled our prawn trap to find 20 large spot prawns…more about them, later.  Today was a big day; we travelled through Desolation Sound.  Since we first started sailing, we have dreamed of this place and it does not disappoint.  The approach on this grey day was spectacular with a few clouds draped over snow-capped mountains and vast green forest on the shores.  


Leaving the Copelands, a huge log boom
The tug is that small speck in the distance
We could smell the freshly cut wood from our boat, sad really

Approaching Desolation Sound




We anchored at Roscoe Bay - yet another exquisite small bay.  The approach to Roscoe Bay must be timed right.  It requires travel over a sandbar, which is above water at low tide (and too shallow at other times).  We slowly inched our way down the narrow channel a few hours prior to high tide without incident.  In the bay, it took us a few tries to set our anchor.  Getting just the right amount of chain laid, in the right spot etc. etc. takes practice.  Bill coached us from his dinghy and his assurance that we really are far enough from that rocky shore will allow us to sleep soundly tonight.  This afternoon, we went ashore by dinghy and hiked with our friends to Black Lake, a wonderful freshwater lake.  We kept a close eye on the dogs because there are wolves here.   The trail is dotted with fantastic pink Foxglove flowers (a source of digitalis…but I digress) and Salal flowers that will bear berries later in the summer.   

Foxglove

Flowering Lily Pad in the lake
Salal flowers

At Black Lake, the water was “refreshing” but some of us (i.e. not me) decided to go for a swim.  With some forceful encouragement, Blue took his first swim.  He was amazing and afterward was proud of his achievement (ok, so that was just me).  


Casca fetches a stick and swims among the Lily Pads
On the hike back, we saw, a fast moving Common Merganzer (very cool duck) with a brood of five or six, hurrying downriver.  For dinner, we had 17 prawns.  What happened to the other three?  With orzo, green peppers, onions, feta and white wine, they were great.  After another great day in paradise, we fell into bed happily exhausted.

June 26 - Powell River to the Copeland Islands


Vancouver Island in the distance

The wake from our boat

After Jedediah Island, we made a pitstop at Powell River and today we moved on to the Copeland Islands.  It has been a perfect hot and sunny day.  In the Copeland Islands, we weaved around hidden obstacles (a rock and a wreck) to enter another tiny bay. There wasn’t enough room for us to anchor independently and so we “rafted” our boat to Eileen and Bill’s, M.V. Ceilidh I, for the night and tied a stern line to the shore.  The rafting process was surprisingly easy.  Within a confined space, Rob did a great job of getting us up beside the other boat and with lots of fenders hanging between the two boats we lashed them together with three different lines (ropes).   This arrangement offers each boat a little less privacy but makes it easy to convene for drinks, enjoy conversation over our adjacent sterns and get Bill to fix stuff on our boat.  Eileen and Bill have now welcomed onboard their friends Mary and Peter, longtime residents of Texada Island. We are enjoying their great company and local knowledge.  

Rafted together and tied to shore,
we did not even need to use our anchor
After dinner, Rob, Blue and I took a run out in our dinghy to drop our prawn trap in Malaspina Strait.   It was a clear, cool night on the water and the three of us quietly bobbed in the water and soaked up the quiet beauty.  The next morning, at low tide, we poked around the bay in our dinghy, marvelling (we're from the prairies, after all) at the size and number of Sea Stars on the rocks.  The rock we could not see, but took pains to avoid on our entry into the bay, was also revealed at low tide and looked more like a small island than a rock.




The Lost Jedediah Island Photos...


On our way to Jedediah Island, a view from the loo


That is me, climbing up to tie our stern line to a secure point on shore
Photo taken by Rob from the comfort of our boat
M.V. Ceilidh I and M.V. Free Spirit V,
both are anchored and stern tied

Our dinghy awaits while we take Blue for a walk on shore

Driftwood Beach 

The homestead overlooking a bay

One of the beaches, completely covered in oysters

The dinghies, ready for prawning

Readying our prawn trap

Now what?

The varied landscape of Jedediah Island